The Metro area certainly isn’t lacking when it comes to Italian restaurants. Among the best of them is Cantoro Italian Trattoria in Plymouth.
Now it has a sibling in Troy, in a manor house set back from busy Big Beaver Road behind the San Marino Club, and it has the aura of country estate.
Maybe it isn’t really away from it all, but the new Cantoro allows diners to suspend disbelief while they enjoy authentic Italian fare.
It replaces the shuttered Tre Monti with a simpler-but-still-upscale menu and a toned-down-but-luxurious setting that includes private dining rooms and outdoor seating on three terraces. The restaurant scene has moved well away from the special occasion style that typified the Tre Monti approach. Cantoro is much more approachable.
While the look of the many-windowed dining room has been simplified, it is still handsome, with its collection of colorful Italian pottery displayed above the fireplace, tables swathed in linen and well-dressed waitstaff.